Details

Sustainability

How the Cosmetics Industry is Greening Up
1. Aufl.

von: Amarjit Sahota
109,99 €
Verlag:	Wiley
Format:	EPUB
Veröffentl.:	19.05.2014
ISBN/EAN:	9781118676486
Sprache:	englisch
Anzahl Seiten:	368

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Beschreibungen

Titelbeschreibung

Sustainability has come to the fore in the cosmetics and personal care industry. Rising ethical consumerism and the need for resource efficiency are making cosmetic companies – small, independent firms to global giants – take steps towards sustainable development. Sustainability: How the Cosmetics Industry is Greening Up discusses the growing importance of sustainability in the cosmetics industry, highlighting the various ways organisations can address the economic, environmental and social aspects. How can the cosmetics industry make a difference in terms of ingredients, formulations, packaging, CSR, operations, and green marketing? Topics covered include: <ul> <li>Environmental and social impacts of cosmetic products</li> <li>Ethical sourcing and biodiversity</li> <li>Renewable energy and waste management</li> <li>Green formulations and ingredients</li> <li>Green marketing issues and consumer behaviour</li> <li>Green standards, certification schemes and indices in the cosmetics industry</li> </ul> Industry experts share their experiences on how they are tackling the challenges of sustainability: from raw material procurements, manufacturing, business processes, to distribution and marketing to consumers. The book concludes with some future growth projections; what are some of the shortcomings in sustainability in the cosmetics industry and what can we expect to see in the future? Sustainability: How the Cosmetics Industry is Greening Up discusses business and technical issues in all areas of sustainable product development, from sourcing ingredients, to formulation, manufacture and packaging. Covering a diverse range of subjects, this book appeals to professionals in many key sectors of the cosmetics and personal care industry; cosmetic chemists, formulation scientists, R&D directors, policy makers, business and marketing executives. It is also of relevance to academic researchers working in cosmetic chemistry and sustainable process development.

Inhaltsverzeichnis

About the Contributors xv Foreword xxiii Preface xxvii 1 Introduction to Sustainability 1 Amarjit Sahota 1.1 Introduction to Book 1 1.2 Introduction to Sustainability 2 1.3 Ethics in the Cosmetics Industry 3 1.4 Drivers of Sustainability 6 1.4.1 Rise in Ethical Consumerism 7 1.4.2 Pressure from the Media and NGOs 7 1.4.3 Environmental Changes and Finite Resources 8 1.4.4 Pressure from the Supply Chain 9 1.4.5 Laws and Regulation 9 1.4.6 Business Benefits 10 1.5 Sustainability Reporting 10 1.5.1 CSR and Sustainability Reports 10 1.5.2 Communicating to Consumers 11 1.6 Guide to Book Chapters 12 References 15 2 Environmental Impacts of Cosmetic Products 17 Part 1: The Growing Importance of Metrics 17 Xavier Vital 2.1.1 Corporate Carbon Footprinting 18 2.1.2 Ecodesign 25 2.1.3 Get Ready for the Future 27 2.1.4 Conclusions 30 Acknowledgement 31 References 31 Part 2: Innovating to Reduce the Environmental Footprint, the L’Oreal Example 31 Jean-Florent Campion, Rachel Barre, and Laurent Gilbert 2.2.1 Introduction 31 2.2.2 Product Eco-Design 32 2.2.3 Responsible Sourcing and Biodiversity Preservation 35 2.2.4 Responsible Production 38 2.2.5 Reference Actions – Some Examples of Key Achievements 40 2.2.6 Conclusion 46 Acknowledgements 46 References 46 3 The Social Footprint of a Beauty Company 47 Bas Schneiders 3.1 The Relationship between Cosmetics and Sustainability 47 3.2 The Growing Significance of Sustainability 48 3.2.1 Current Situation 48 3.2.2 Solution Strategies 49 3.3 Sustainability as a Social Challenge for Cosmetics Companies 50 3.3.1 Social Footprinting 50 3.3.2 Critical Areas with Social Impacts 50 3.3.3 Social Diversity and Differentiation 52 3.4 Case Study: Weleda: A Value-Oriented Business 53 3.4.1 Ethical Sourcing 55 3.4.2 Employee Policy 62 3.4.3 Corporate Philanthropy 65 3.4.4 Economic Sustainability and Value Creation 66 3.5 Conclusions 68 Recommended Reading 68 References 68 4 Ethical Sourcing of Raw Materials 69 Part 1: Ethical Sourcing – The Givaudan Approach 69 Remi Pulverail 4.1.1 The Business Case for Ethical Sourcing 69 4.1.2 Making Ethical Sourcing a Reality 70 4.1.3 Working with Customers 71 4.1.4 Building Supplier Partnerships 72 4.1.5 Securing the Future of Benzoin in Laos 72 4.1.6 Tracing the Origins of Ethical Vanilla in Madagascar 74 4.1.7 Moh´eli Partnership Rediscovers Ylang Ylang 76 4.1.8 Equipment Loans Support Sustainable Sandalwood Production 77 4.1.9 Protecting Biodiversity and Tonka Bean Supply in Venezuela 79 4.1.10 Is Natural Sustainable? 80 4.1.11 Conclusion 80 Part 2: Innovation and Ethical Sourcing – Beraca’s Experience 81 Filipe Tomazelli Sabara 4.2.1 Introduction 81 4.2.2 Challenges Related to Ethical Sourcing 82 4.2.3 Beraca and the Biodiversity Enhancement Programme 83 4.2.4 Working in Partnership with Local Communities 85 4.2.5 Success Stories 89 4.2.6 What is Yet to be Achieved 93 4.2.7 Conclusion 94 References 95 5 Biodiversity in the Cosmetics Industry 97 Eduardo Escobedo and Rik Kutsch Lojenga 5.1 Introduction 97 5.1.1 The Critical Loss of Biodiversity and Its Impact on the Cosmetics Industry 99 5.2 Why Should the Cosmetics Industry Care about Protecting Biodiversity? 100 5.2.1 Biodiversity as a Sound Business Strategy 101 5.2.2 Ecosystem Services 102 5.3 How is the Policy Arena Changing and What Implications Does This Have for the Industry? 103 5.3.1 The Convention on Biological Diversity 103 5.3.2 The Strategic Plan for Biodiversity 104 5.3.3 The Nagoya Protocol 106 5.3.4 The Convention on International Trade of Endangered Species of Wild Flora and Fauna (CITES) 107 5.4 Biodiversity Barometer: Consumer Views and Expectations on Biodiversity 109 5.4.1 Biodiversity Awareness is Growing 110 5.4.2 Increased Awareness Brings Greater Expectations 111 5.4.3 Opportunities for Pioneering Companies 111 5.5 Ethical Sourcing in Practice 114 5.5.1 Putting Ethical Sourcing of Biodiversity into Practice 114 5.5.2 Conservation of Biodiversity 116 5.5.3 Sustainable Use of Biodiversity 118 5.5.4 Fair and Equitable Benefit Sharing 120 5.6 Conclusions 124 References 125 6 Sustainable Packaging 127 Part 1: Introduction 127 Amarjit Sahota References 129 Part 2: Sustainable Packaging for Cosmetic Products – Using Biobased Carbon Content and Designing for End-of-Life 129 Ramani Narayan 6.2.1 Introduction 129 6.2.2 Carbon Footprint Value Proposition 130 6.2.3 Material Carbon Versus Process Carbon Footprint 131 6.2.4 Exemplars of Zero Material Carbon Footprint Resins 132 6.2.5 Measuring Biobased Carbon Content 134 6.2.6 End-of-Life for the Packaging – Recycling and Biodegradable-Compostability 135 6.2.7 Science of Biodegradability 136 6.2.8 Summary 138 References 139 Part 3: The Role of Design for Sustainable Packaging 139 Anne van Haeften 6.3.1 Introduction 139 6.3.2 The Design Agency 140 6.3.3 Packaging Design 141 6.3.4 The Brand 142 6.3.5 Innovation and Design 144 6.3.6 Graphical Component 144 6.3.7 Post-Use Packaging 145 6.3.8 Lush Case Study: Get Naked! 145 6.3.9 Conclusion 147 References 148 Part 4: Sustainable Packaging – Aveda Case Study 148 John A. Delfausse 6.4.1 A Commitment to the Environment – the Aveda Mission 148 6.4.2 Direction from the Top 148 6.4.3 A Great Beginning 149 6.4.4 Real Sustainability 153 7 Energy and Waste Management 155 Charles J. ‘Chuck’ Bennett and Michael S. Brown 7.1 Introduction to Energy and Waste Management in the Cosmetics Industry 155 7.1.1 Global Resource Constraints and the Challenge for Business 155 7.1.2 Energy Issues and the Cosmetics Industry 156 7.1.3 Wastes and Personal Care Products 158 7.2 Aveda – the Company 159 7.3 Energy Management in Aveda 161 7.3.1 Process Energy Opportunities 162 7.3.2 Facility Energy Improvements 162 7.3.3 Results and Current Situation 163 7.3.4 Renewable Energy and Emissions Offsets 164 7.3.5 Other Dimensions of Aveda’s Energy Management – Shipping and Product Use 166 7.4 Waste Management at Aveda 167 7.4.1 Waste Management in Operations 167 7.4.2 Recycling beyond Blaine 169 7.4.3 Products and Packaging 169 7.5 Summary 173 References 173 8 Corporate Social Responsibility and Philanthropy 175 Part 1: Introduction 175 Amarjit Sahota 8.1.1 Corporate Social Responsibility 175 8.1.2 Corporate Philanthropy 176 References 178 Part 2: BURT’S BEES® Case Study 178 Paula Alexander 8.2.1 Value-Driven Sustainability Leadership 180 8.2.2 The Greater Good Business Model: An Integrated Approach to Sustainability 181 8.2.3 Strategic Giving 184 8.2.4 Employee Engagement 186 8.2.5 Summary 188 References 188 Part 3: Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soaps: Business as Activism 189 David Bronner 8.3.1 Introduction 189 8.3.2 Company Background 189 8.3.3 Fair Trade Projects 191 8.3.4 Corporate Activism 194 8.3.5 Summary 195 9 Green Formulations and Ingredients 197 Judi Beerling 9.1 Introduction 197 9.2 Definitions 198 9.2.1 Synthetic Ingredient 198 9.2.2 Natural Ingredient 198 9.2.3 Naturally Derived Ingredient 199 9.2.4 Nature Identical Ingredient 199 9.2.5 Organic 199 9.3 How Natural are Current Market Products? 200 9.4 Synthetic Ingredients Normally Absent from Natural/Organic Cosmetics 202 9.5 Available Green Replacements for Synthetic Cosmetic Ingredients 204 9.6 Formulation Issues with Green Ingredients 214 9.7 Summary 214 References 215 10 Green Standards, Certification and Indices 217 Judi Beerling and Amarjit Sahota 10.1 Introduction 217 10.2 Natural and Organic Cosmetic Standards 218 10.2.1 Major European Standards for Natural and Organic Products 219 10.2.2 BDIH (Germany) 219 10.2.3 Ecocert Greenlife (France) 220 10.2.4 CosmeBio (France) 221 10.2.5 Soil Association (UK) 221 10.2.6 ICEA (Italy) 222 10.2.7 COSMOS 222 10.2.8 Natrue (Belgium) 224 10.2.9 Other European Standards 225 10.2.10 Major North American Standards 225 10.2.11 USDA/NOP 226 10.2.12 NSF International 226 10.2.13 NPA (Natural Products Association) 227 10.2.14 Standards in Other Regions 228 10.2.15 Comparison of the Key Requirements of the Ecocert Greenlife, COSMOS and Natrue Standards 229 10.3 Fair Trade Labels 229 10.4 Other Eco-Labels 231 10.4.1 Eco Flower – The European Eco-Label 231 10.4.2 Nordic Swan – The Nordic Ecolabel 232 10.4.3 Others in Europe 232 10.4.4 Green Seal USA 232 10.4.5 USDA Biobased Product Certification 233 10.4.6 Carbon Labels 233 10.5 Other Sustainability Standards and Indices 234 10.5.1 ISO Standards 14000 and 26000 234 10.5.2 SA8000 235 10.5.3 Other Standards 236 10.5.4 Sustainable Indexes 236 References 237 11 Understanding Green Marketing 239 Darrin C. Duber-Smith and Mason W. Rubin 11.1 The “Why” of Sustainability 240 11.2 The Green Consumer 242 11.3 Best Green Practices 244 11.4 Communication versus Reality: The Many Shades of Green 245 11.4.1 Red Marketer 245 11.4.2 Green Panderer 247 11.4.3 Green Buffeteer 248 11.4.4 Light Green Marketer 249 11.4.5 Natural Green Marketer 250 11.4.6 Deep Green Marketer 251 11.5 Greener Than Thou 252 References 253 12 Marketing Case Studies 255 Part 1: Yes ToTM Inc. 255 Ido Leffler 12.1.1 The Background 255 12.1.2 The Growth Path 256 12.1.3 Marketing Strategy 259 12.1.4 Product Positioning 262 12.1.5 Distribution Growth and Brand Extensions 263 12.1.6 Future Plans 264 Part 2: Korres Natural Products 265 12.2.1 George Korres From Herbal Remedies to Natural Products 265 12.2.2 The Challenge 267 12.2.3 Vision and Strategy 268 12.2.4 Target Audience 270 12.2.5 The Portfolio at a Glance 270 12.2.6 Marketing and Positioning 271 12.2.7 Beauty Made Honest 272 12.2.8 Sustainability 273 12.2.9 Global Presence 274 12.2.10 A Closer Look 276 12.2.11 A Success Case Study Starring . . . the Product 277 12.2.12 The Future 277 Part 3: Whole Foods Market 278 Jody Villecco 12.3.1 Introduction 278 12.3.2 Body Care Quality Standards 279 12.3.3 Whole Body Responsible Packaging 285 12.3.4 Organic Body Care Labeling Standards 286 12.3.5 Industry Recognition 287 12.3.6 Conclusion 287 References 288 13 Targeting the Green Consumer 289 Kathy Sheehan 13.1 Introduction 289 13.2 United States 292 13.3 Western Europe 295 13.4 China 296 13.5 Latin America 298 13.6 Conclusions 300 14 Future Outlook 301 Amarjit Sahota 14.1 Preamble 301 14.2 Sustainability 301 14.3 Social Dimensions 303 14.4 Green Cosmetics 305 14.5 Responsible Consumption 308 14.6 Role of Government and Legislation 310 14.7 Benchmarking of Cosmetic Companies 311 14.8 Conclusions 312 References 314 Index

Rezension

“Amarjit Sahota’s book is a well-researched and comprehensive snapshot on the different facets of sustainability in cosmetics today. This is the first, and currently, the only book on this hot topic; it’s a must read.” (Chemistry & Industry, 14 July 2014) “This publication from Wiley collects a wide number of articles focusing on sustainability in cosmetics, 14 chapters, which represents a road map in this so sensitive issue. The authors are key experts from organizations involved in sustainability in the cosmetics industry issue with a relevant long experience.” (H & PC Today, March/April 2014)

Autorenportrait

Editor Amarjit Sahota President, Organic Monitor, London, UK

Back cover copy

Sustainability has come to the fore in the cosmetics and personal care industry. Rising ethical consumerism and the need for resource efficiency are making cosmetic companies – small, independent firms to global giants – take steps towards sustainable development. Sustainability: How the Cosmetics Industry is Greening Up discusses the growing importance of sustainability in the cosmetics industry, highlighting the various ways organisations can address the economic, environmental and social aspects. How can the cosmetics industry make a difference in terms of ingredients, formulations, packaging, CSR, operations, and green marketing? Topics covered include: <ul> <li>Environmental and social impacts of cosmetic products</li> <li>Ethical sourcing and biodiversity</li> <li>Renewable energy and waste management</li> <li>Green formulations and ingredients</li> <li>Green marketing issues and consumer behaviour</li> <li>Green standards, certification schemes and indices in the cosmetics industry</li> </ul> Industry experts share their experiences on how they are tackling the challenges of sustainability: from raw material procurements, manufacturing, business processes, to distribution and marketing to consumers. The book concludes with some future growth projections; what are some of the shortcomings in sustainability in the cosmetics industry and what can we expect to see in the future? Sustainability: How the Cosmetics Industry is Greening Up discusses business and technical issues in all areas of sustainable product development, from sourcing ingredients, to formulation, manufacture and packaging. Covering a diverse range of subjects, this book will appeal to professionals in many key sectors of the cosmetics and personal care industry; cosmetic chemists, formulation scientists, R&D directors, policy makers, business and marketing executives. It will also be of relevance to academic researchers working in cosmetic chemistry and sustainable process development.