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Phillip Carmical (pcarmical@scrivenerpublishing.com)
Edited by
Mohd Yusuf
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Yusuf, Mohd, editor.
Title: Handbook of renewable materials for coloration and finishing / edited by Mohd Yusuf.
Description: Beverly, MA: Scrivener Publishing, [2018] | Includes bibliographical references and index. |
Identifiers: LCCN 2018023712 (print) | LCCN 2018024646 (ebook) | ISBN 9781119407843 (Adobe PDF) | ISBN 9781119407867 (ePub) | ISBN 9781119407751
(hardcover)
Subjects: LCSH: Dyes and dyeing–Textile fibers–Handbooks, manuals, etc. | Dye plants–Handbooks, manuals, etc. | Biological products–Handbooks, manuals, etc. | Green chemistry–Handbooks, manuals, etc.
Classification: LCC TP919 (ebook) | LCC TP919 .H36 2018 (print) | DDC 667/.20286–dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2018023712
A sustainable world requires the utilization of renewable materials or resources that can be produced in huge quantities for a wide range of applications. To adopt the use of active materials for textile coloration and finishing, they should reach the technical demands of the modern world such as eco-preservation, economic and ecological requirements. Therefore, there is a need to discuss and understand the challenges and solutions of textile coloration and functional finishing methodologies.
An attempt is to be made to give the handbook a multidisciplinary dimension through technological perspectives to perform further research regarding new opportunities and sustainable products. As a matter of fact, this book is oriented to give general to specific knowledge to the readers working in the field of textile engineering step by step. The purpose of the handbook is to provide reference material that includes basic principles and current developments in the field of natural coloration and finishing.
The handbook is divided into four segments; Substrates for Coloration and Finishing, Renewable Colorants and their Applications, Advanced Materials and Technologies for Coloration and Finishing and Sustainability.
Part I contains three chapters that overview the systematic discussion on the suitability, physical, chemical and processing aspects of substrates for coloration and finishing. Part II includes nine chapters and covers in-depth arguments on renewable colorants and their various applications including a chapter on bio-colorant’s application as photosensitizers for dye sensitized solar cells. Part III contains five chapters in which modern advancements and processing methods/technologies for coloration and functional finishing are presented comprehensively. Part IV contains two chapters that provide sustainable aspects of coloration and finishing. Overall, the Handbook of Renewable Materials for Coloration and Finishing provides a vivid digest on the most important topics that will surely be beneficial to academicians, industry scientists and students. Additionally, the book will be a useful instrument to overview the fragmented situation and support a rapid and efficient entry into the emerging field of green and sustainable chemistry.
My sincere thanks go to the eminent authors for their priceless contributions. I welcome our readers valuable comments, which will help to improve future volumes.
I express my appreciation to Dr. M. I. Khan, Principal, YMD College, Nuh, Haryana for his worthy suggestions and moral support. My deep sense of cordiality goes to my colleague and friend Dr. M. Shahid, Marie Quire Fellow, University of Glasgow, Scotland for discussion, careful advice, critique and valuable suggestions. Also, I am thankful to my parents (Mohd Yasin and Mrs. Sakina Yasin) and spouse (Mrs. Salma Yusuf) for their moral support, beneficial and careful efforts.
Particularly, I would like to express my sincere thanks to Scrivener Publishing for inviting me to compile the book.
Mohd Yusuf
(Editor)
Head
Department of Chemistry
YMD College, M. D. University, Nuh
Haryana 122107 India
May 2018
Mohd Shabbira* and Faqeer Mohammad
Department of Chemistry, Jamia Millia Islamia, New Delhi, India
*Corresponding author: shabbirmeo@gmail.com
Basic molecular units or the monomeric units of macromolecules or polymers decide the characteristic features of them. Textile fiber is a material mainly made from natural or synthetic sources. The fibers are transformed to make various products such as yarns, knitted, woven or nonwoven fabrics, and carpets. A growing textile industry is always in search of new materials, whether these are the resources of textile fibers or the other functional materials. Textile fibers can be obtained naturally from animals and various parts of plants, while a lot of synthetic or semi-synthetic textile fibers are being produced in the laboratories that are developed at industrial scale later. This chapter highlights the various kinds of textile fibers, concisely.
Keywords: Textile, Fibers, Polymers, Materials
Textile fibers have been utilized to make clothes for several thousand years. Wool, flax, cotton, and silk were commonly used textile fibers. Textile fibers are characterized by their several value added virtues such as flexibility, fineness, and large length in relation to the maximum transverse dimension. In general, evolution of human being is thought about behavioral and mind strength changes, but it is also accompanied with the understanding of clothing on the basis of availability of resources and protection against environmental changes. Now clothing has been considered as second basic need of mankind after food. Present scenario of the world demands not only the protection of human body but also the comfortness via clothing [1]. Textile fibers have been discovered or developed from natural resources in the starting and with scientific growth, the synthetic fibers. These have been utilized to develop textiles of various characteristics such as wool for thermoregulation, silk for shining colors, cotton for softness, and bamboo fiber textiles for antimicrobial characteristics [2, 3]. First manufactured fiber was produced commercially on 1885 and was produced from fibers of plants and animals. Since from the past, there are many types of textile fibers that have been used or developed in textile production such as cloth, rope, household etc. [2, 3, 4, 5]. This chapter is all about concise overview of the classification of textile fibers.
Textile fibers can be classified on different basis; depending on their chemical structures, resources, and their production methods.
On the basis of their origin, textile fibers are classified into three categories, which can be further classified in to several groups (Figure 1.1 and Figure 1.2).
Textile fibers obtained from plants and animals fall into this category.
Wool and silk are the examples of natural fibers obtained from animals (sheep and silkworm). These fibers are protein based with respect to their chemical structure (Figure 1.3). Amino acids are the repeating units in their chemical structure. Wool fibers are well known for their characteristics such as heat insulation, fire resistance, and high dyeability. Another protein fiber silk also have some peculiar characteristics such as smoothness, light reflection and anti-crease [6, 7].
A range of natural fibers are produced from plant parts (Figure 1.4), such as cotton (seed hairs), flex and hemp (stem fibers), sisal (leaf fibers), husk fibers and coir (coconut). These fibers have their specific characteristics and exclusively utilized for them, such as cotton is used for the summer clothing for its comfort on human skin. Many of them are used for ropes, mattresses, geo-textiles other than clothing [8, 9, 10].
These fibers are synthesized in laboratories via chemical reactions of precursor molecules (Figure 1.5).
Polyesters (poly-ethylene terephthalate (PET), poly-butylene succinate (PBS), and poly lactic acid (PLA)) are the synthetic fibers that have ester linkage in between their monomeric units.
Nylon is a synthetic fiber like polyester derived from petrochemicals. It is a versatile fiber and used for various kinds of applications such as stockings and parachutes, carpets, packaging and even car parts. Nylons are a group of materials called polyamides. Nylon is also not much suited to natural dyes and some chemical dyes, so need high efforts for coloration.
Acrylic fibers are also a type of synthetic fibers made from a polymer polyacrylonitrile with an average molecular weight of ~100,000, about 1900 monomer units. Acrylic is lightweight, soft, and warm, with a woollike feel [11, 12, 13].
Rayon is an artificial textile material composed of reconstituted or regenerated cellulose compounds. It has polymer chain structure from nature and is only modified and partially degraded by chemical processes, so called a semi-synthetic fiber (Figure 1.6). On the basis of properties variation, rayon also developed into fibers such as viscose rayon, high wet modulus (HWM) rayon and lyocell etc. [1, 3].
Population explosion and high awareness among people created more choices of clothing as well as their demands. To meet the needs of this generation, higher attention towards high productivity resources and qualitative research is required. Productivity of animal fibers such as wool and silk can be increased by improving farming practices. Inherent properties of wool and silk can also be improvised with the help of materials (nanomaterials and plasma etc.) and modern techniques. Textile fibers (cotton, jute, hemp etc.) obtained from plants are the good alternatives as these are considered as biocompatible and produced from never ending resources that are plants. Production of plant based textile fibers simultaneously can provide benefits toward environment and human health. Regenerated cellulosic fibers among synthetic fibers are also the good alternatives and can help to fulfill the current demands. These fibers have been known to have high quality characteristics and their production can also utilize the lower grade cellulose materials like paper waste, cotton, grass etc. Better understanding of the textile fiber’s chemical and structural properties is the basic thing for the improvisation and functionalization of the textile materials.
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2. Tortman, E.R., Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibers, 4th Ed., Charles Griffin and Co., USA, 1975.
3. Shabbir, M. and Mohammad, F., Sustainable production of regenerated cellulosic fibres, in: Sustainable Fibres and Textiles, S. Muthu (Ed.), pp. 171, Woodhead Publishing, USA, 2017.
4. Cook, J.G., Handbook of Textile Fibers: Natural Fibers, Vol I, Woodhead Publishing Limited, Sawton, Cambridge, UK, 1984.
5. Lewis, D.M., Wool Dyeing, Society of Dyers and Colorists, UK, 1992.
6. Bradbury, J.H., The structure and chemistry of keratin fibers, in: Advances in Protein Chemistry, C.B. Anfinsen Jr, J.T. Edsall, F.M. Richards (Eds.), 27, pp. 111–211, Academic Press, New York, 1973.
7. Hall, D.M., Adanur, S., Broughton Jr., R.M., Brady, P.H., Polymers and fibers, in: Wellington Sears Handbook of Industrial Textiles, 1st Edn, S. Adanur (Ed.), pp. 37–52, CRC Press, New Holland, USA, 1995.
8. Wakelyn, P.J., Bertoniere, N.R., French, A.D., Thibodeaux, O.P., Triplett, B.A., Rousselle, M.A., Goynes Jr, W.R., Edwards, J.V., Hunter, L., McAlisten, D.D., Gamble, G.R., (Eds.), Cotton Fiber Chemistry and Technology, CRC Press, Florida, USA, 2007.
9. Basu, G., Sinha, A.K. and Chattopadhyay, S.N., Properties of jute based ternary blended bulked yarns. Man. Made. Text. India., 48, 350, 2005.
10. Brühlmann, F., Leupin, M., Erismann, K.H., and Fiechter, A., Enzymatic degumming of ramie bast fibers. J. Biotechnol., 76, 43–50, 2000.
11. Karthik, T. and Rathinamoorthy, R., Sustainable synthetic fibre production, in: Sustainable Fibres and Textiles, S. Muthu (Ed.), pp. 191–240, Woodhead Publishing, USA, 2017.
12. Kirk, R.E., Othmer, D.F., Mark, H.F., Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Wiley-Interscience, Chichester, 1965.
13. Dyer, J. and Daul, G.C., Rayon fibers, in: Handbook of Fiber Chemistry, 2nd Edn., M. Lewin, E.M. Pearce (Eds.), pp. 738–744, Marvel Decker Inc., New York, 1998.