Details

<p>Preface to the second edition xi</p> <p>Acknowledgements xiii</p> <p>List of Figures xv</p> <p>List of Tables and Panels xxiii</p> <p><b>1 Introduction 01</b></p> <p>1.1 Coastal geomorphology 01</p> <p>1.2 Terminology 02</p> <p>1.3 Ancient coastlines 03</p> <p>1.4 Coastline morphology 05</p> <p>1.5 Coastline length 07</p> <p>1.6 Coastal evolution 08</p> <p>1.7 Changing coastlines 09</p> <p>1.8 Summary 11</p> <p><b>2 Coastal processes 13</b></p> <p>2.1 Introduction 13</p> <p>2.2 Waves 13</p> <p>2.3 Tides 25</p> <p>2.4 Storm surges 31</p> <p>2.5 Tsunamis 32</p> <p>2.6 Currents 34</p> <p>2.7 Nearshore water circulation 35</p> <p>2.8 Wind action 36</p> <p>2.9 Other processes 36</p> <p>2.10 Modelling coastal processes 36</p> <p>2.11 Summary 37</p> <p><b>3 Land and sea level changes 39</b></p> <p>3.1 Introduction 39</p> <p>3.2 Mean sea level 39</p> <p>3.3 Causes of sea level change 40</p> <p>3.4 Measuring changes of level 45</p> <p>3.5 Correlation and dating of former coastlines 46</p> <p>3.6 Emerged coastlines 46</p> <p>3.7 Submerged coastlines 51</p> <p>3.8 Sea level variations 53</p> <p>3.9 Late Quaternary sea level changes 53</p> <p>3.10 Modern sea level changes 58</p> <p>3.11 Recent changes of land and sea level 62</p> <p>3.12 Future sea level changes 65</p> <p>3.13 Summary 66</p> <p><b>4 Cliffs 67</b></p> <p>4.1 Introduction 67</p> <p>4.2 Cliff evolution 69</p> <p>4.3 Cliff morphology 74</p> <p>4.4 Cliff weathering in cold climates 85</p> <p>4.5 Cliffs and bluffs on humid tropical coasts 86</p> <p>4.6 Cliff dissection 87</p> <p>4.7 Outlines in plan of cliffed coasts 95</p> <p>4.8 Coastal landslides 98</p> <p>4.9 Rates of cliff recession 102</p> <p>4.10 Summary 106</p> <p><b>5 Shore platforms 107</b></p> <p>5.1 Shore processes 107</p> <p>5.2 Shore platforms 113</p> <p>5.3 Plunging cliffs 130</p> <p>5.4 Summary 132</p> <p><b>6 Beaches 133</b></p> <p>6.1 Introduction 133</p> <p>6.2 Beach sediments 134</p> <p>6.3 Evolution of beaches 137</p> <p>6.4 Provenance of beach sediments 138</p> <p>6.5 Weathering of beach material 160</p> <p>6.6 Beach rock 161</p> <p>6.7 Nearshore processes 162</p> <p>6.8 Beach morphology 162</p> <p>6.9 Beach outlines in plan 164</p> <p>6.10 Beach outlines in profile 171</p> <p>6.11 Beach morphodynamics and beach states 179</p> <p>6.12 Use of models 181</p> <p>6.13 Beach compartments 182</p> <p>6.14 Beach budgets 183</p> <p>6.15 Tracing beach sediment flow 184</p> <p>6.16 Lateral grading 187</p> <p>6.17 Prograding beaches 190</p> <p>6.18 Beach ridges 193</p> <p>6.19 Cheniers 197</p> <p>6.20 Beach lobes 198</p> <p>6.21 Summary 200</p> <p><b>7 Beach erosion 201</b></p> <p>7.1 Introduction 201</p> <p>7.2 The multiple causes of beach erosion 217</p> <p>7.3 Effects of artificial structures on beaches 218</p> <p>7.4 Beach nourishment 219</p> <p>7.5 Summary 221</p> <p><b>8 Spits, barriers and bars 223</b></p> <p>8.1 Introduction 223</p> <p>8.2 Spits 223</p> <p>8.3 Tombolos 229</p> <p>8.4 Cuspate and lobate spits 230</p> <p>8.5 Cuspate and lobate forelands 234</p> <p>8.6 Coastal barriers and barrier islands 235</p> <p>8.7 Intertidal sandflats 242</p> <p>8.8 Bars and troughs 242</p> <p>8.9 Sand shoals 245</p> <p>8.10 Ripples 245</p> <p>8.11 Sandstone reefs 246</p> <p>8.12 Summary 246</p> <p><b>9 Coastal dunes 247</b></p> <p>9.1 Introduction 247</p> <p>9.2 Foredunes 250</p> <p>9.3 Backshore cliffing of dunes 252</p> <p>9.4 Parallel dunes 253</p> <p>9.5 Blow-outs and parabolic dunes 255</p> <p>9.6 Transgressive dunes 258</p> <p>9.7 Cliff-top dunes 261</p> <p>9.8 Dunes on shingle 261</p> <p>9.9 Rates of dune movement 262</p> <p>9.10 Dune calcarenite 263</p> <p>9.11 Machair 265</p> <p>9.12 Coastal dunes in the humid tropics 266</p> <p>9.13 Old and new dunes 267</p> <p>9.14 Dune sandrock 268</p> <p>9.15 Dune lakes 268</p> <p>9.16 Summary 268</p> <p><b>10 Intertidal wetlands 271</b></p> <p>10.1 Introduction 271</p> <p>10.2 Intertidal morphology 271</p> <p>10.3 Sources of intertidal sediments 274</p> <p>10.4 Mudflats 274</p> <p>10.5 Intertidal vegetation 276</p> <p>10.6 Sea-grass beds 276</p> <p>10.7 Salt marshes 277</p> <p>10.8 Mangroves 286</p> <p>10.9 Freshwater swamps 293</p> <p>10.10 Summary 294</p> <p><b>11 Estuaries and lagoons 295</b></p> <p>11.1 Introduction 295</p> <p>11.2 Rias 295</p> <p>11.3 Fiords 296</p> <p>11.4 Fiards 298</p> <p>11.5 Calanques 298</p> <p>11.6 Sharms and sebkhas 298</p> <p>11.7 Estuaries 299</p> <p>11.8 Coastal lagoons 311</p> <p>11.9 Summary 329</p> <p><b>12 Deltas 331</b></p> <p>12.1 Introduction 331</p> <p>12.2 Delta components 331</p> <p>12.3 Deltaic processes 332</p> <p>12.4 The Mississippi delta 334</p> <p>12.5 Delta outlines 337</p> <p>12.6 Delta evolution 342</p> <p>12.7 Delta shores 346</p> <p>12.8 Summary 347</p> <p><b>13 Coral and algal reefs 349</b></p> <p>13.1 Introduction 349</p> <p>13.2 Coral reefs 349</p> <p>13.3 Origin of coral reefs 350</p> <p>13.4 Rates of growth 351</p> <p>13.5 Fringing reefs 353</p> <p>13.6 Barrier reefs 354</p> <p>13.7 Atolls 357</p> <p>13.8 Emerged coral reefs 359</p> <p>13.9 Islands on coral reef platforms 360</p> <p>13.10 Algal and other biogenic reefs 363</p> <p>13.11 Summary 364</p> <p><b>14 Future coasts 365</b></p> <p>14.1 Introduction 365</p> <p>14.2 Greenhouse effect and sea level rise 365</p> <p>14.3 General effects of a rising sea level 366</p> <p>14.4 Effects of a changing climate 369</p> <p>14.5 Effects on cliffs and shore platforms 369</p> <p>14.6 Effects on beaches, spits and barriers 372</p> <p>14.7 Effects on coastal dunes 376</p> <p>14.8 Effects on intertidal wetlands 376</p> <p>14.9 Effects on estuaries and lagoons 379</p> <p>14.10 Effects on deltaic coasts 380</p> <p>14.11 Effects on coral and algal reefs 381</p> <p>14.12 Conclusion 385</p> <p>14.13 Summary 385</p> <p>References 387</p> <p>Index 405</p>

<b>Eric Charles Frederick Bird,</b> Principal Fellow, Department of Geography, University of Melbourne, Australia.

<p><i>Coastal Geomorphology</i>, Second Edition is a comprehensive and systematic introduction to the subject and demonstrates the dynamic nature of coastal landforms, providing a background for analytical planning and management strategies in coastal areas subject to continuing changes.</p> <p>This introductory textbook has been completely revised and updated, and is supplemented by a website which provides additional illustrations, global examples, case studies and more detailed and advanced information on topics referenced in the book, together with the reader with a coastal geomorphology in formation system that will enable them to follow up particular topics in more detail if required.</p> <p>This book will be an invaluable reference for undergraduate and graduate students taking relevant courses within physical geography, geology and other related earth and environmental science subjects.</p> <ul> <li>Completely revised and updated to include recent events such as the Indian Ocean tsunami and New Orleans flooding</li> <li>Provides global examples of coastal features and process relationships from Britain, Europe, North America and Australasia</li> <li>A systematic approach to coastal geomorphology to enhance student understanding</li> <li>Includes key discussion on the effects of human activity on coasts and their continuing contribution to coastal landform changes</li> <li>Includes a website with further references and case studies</li> </ul>

GB