Details

Beaches and Coasts

2. Aufl.

von: Richard A. Davis, Duncan M. Fitzgerald
71,99 €
Verlag:	Wiley
Format:	EPUB
Veröffentl.:	10.12.2019
ISBN/EAN:	9781119334552
Sprache:	englisch
Anzahl Seiten:	544

In den Warenkorb

Als Gutschein

DRM-geschütztes eBook, Sie benötigen z.B. Adobe Digital Editions und eine Adobe ID zum Lesen.

Beschreibungen

Titelbeschreibung

A new edition of a unique textbook that provides an exhaustive treatment of the world's different coasts—with focus on climate change sea-level rise Coastlines of the world are as diverse and complex as any geological setting on Earth, and understanding them is extremely important. Beaches and Coasts, Second Edition is an exciting and unique textbook that covers the world’s different coasts and details the highly varied processes that have shaped them. This new edition emphasizes the future susceptibility of coast to climate driven stresses and decreasing sediment supplies, and considers various aspects of coastal management that are and/or that need to be undertaken. Seeking to better educate students and readers about the sustainability of coast and coastal environments, this exciting and unique book offers enlightening coverage of: the Earth’s mobile crust; sediments of coastal environments; impacts of sea level change; weather systems and the effects of storms; the influence of wave energy and different tidal regimes; river deltas; coastal bays; estuaries and lagoons; tidal flats; coastal wetlands; beach and nearshore areas; coastal barriers; tidal inlets; glaciated coasts; and rocky coasts. <ul> <li>Takes an extensive look at the world's varied coasts and covers the many processes that have shaped them over time</li> <li>Shows how coastal processes and landform evolution are expected to be impacted by climate change</li> <li>Includes new coverage of Hurricane Katrina and the 2005 flooding of New Orleans, Hurricane Sandy and its affect on New York and the earthquake and tsunami in the Indian Ocean and Tohoku</li> <li>Lavishly illustrated with over 400 color photographs and figures</li> <li>Draws on a wealth of author experience that broadens the content of chapters and provides for numerous and varied examples</li> </ul> Beaches and Coasts, Second Edition is an excellent text for undergraduate and graduate students of coastal geology, coastal processes and coastal environments.

Inhaltsverzeichnis

1 Coastline Variability and Functions in the Global Environment 1 1.1 Coastal Settings 1 1.2 Population and the Coast 3 1.2.1 History of Coastal Occupation 3 1.3 General Coastal Conditions 3 1.4 Coastal Environments 4 1.5 Historical Trends in Coastal Research 8 Suggested Reading 13 2 The Earth’s Mobile Crust 15 2.1 Introduction 15 2.2 Earth’s Interior 18 2.3 Plate Boundaries 21 2.3.1 Divergent Boundaries 21 2.3.2 Convergent Boundaries 24 2.3.3 Transform Boundaries 28 2.3.4 Plate Movement 29 2.4 Continental Margins 31 2.4.1 Tectonic Evolution of Continental Margins 34 2.5 Tectonic Coastline Classification 36 2.5.1 Collision Coasts 37 2.5.2 Trailing Edge Coasts 42 2.5.3 Marginal Sea Coasts 46 2.6 Tectonic Effects on Coastal Sediment Supply 47 2.6.1 Continental Drainage 48 2.6.2 Location of Rivers 49 2.6.3 Continental Shelf Width 51 2.7 Summary 52 Reference 53 Suggested Reading 53 3 Sediments and Rocks: Materials of Coastal Environments 55 3.1 Rock Types 55 3.2 Sediment Texture 56 3.2.1 Grain Size 56 3.2.2 Grain Shape 59 3.3 Mineralogy 60 3.4 General Origin and Distribution of Sediments 60 3.4.1 Composition 61 3.4.2 Texture 64 3.5 Summary 65 Reference 66 Suggested Reading 67 4 Sea‐Level Change and Coastal Environments 69 4.1 Changing the Size and Shape of the Container 71 4.1.1 Tectonic Causes 71 4.2 Climate and Sea‐Level Change 74 4.2.1 Seasonal Changes 74 4.2.2 Non‐seasonal Cyclic Changes 75 4.2.3 Long‐term Climatic Effects 76 4.3 Sea‐level Rise due to Sediment Compaction and Fluid Withdrawal 77 4.4 Isostasy 81 4.5 Changes in the Volume of the World Ocean 81 4.5.1 Advance and Retreat of Ice Sheets 81 4.6 Post‐Glacial Rise in Sea Level 85 4.7 Current and Future Sea‐Level Changes 86 4.7.1 Impact of Increasing Rise in Sea Level on Modern Coastal Environments 90 4.8 Summary 93 References 94 Suggested Reading 94 5 Weather Systems, Extratropical Storms, and Hurricanes 95 5.1 Introduction 95 5.2 Basic Atmospheric Circulation and Weather Patterns 97 5.2.1 Wind 97 5.2.2 Atmospheric Circulation 97 5.2.3 Prevailing Winds 101 5.2.4 Cyclonic and Anticyclonic Systems 101 5.2.5 Land‐breezes and Sea‐breezes 102 5.3 Mid‐latitude Storms 102 5.3.1 Frontal Weather 103 5.3.2 Cyclogenesis 105 5.3.3 Extratropical Storms 106 5.4 Hurricanes and Tropical Storms 109 5.4.1 Low Latitude Storms 109 5.4.2 Origin and Movement of Hurricanes 110 5.4.3 Anatomy of a Hurricane 113 5.4.4 Hurricanes at the Coast 115 5.5 Summary 125 Suggested Reading 132 6 Waves and the Coast 133 6.1 Water Motion and Wave Propagation 136 6.2 Wind Wave Types 140 6.3 Distribution and Transfer of Wave Energy 142 6.4 Other Types of Waves 146 6.5 Wave‐Generated Currents 148 6.6 Summary 150 Suggested Reading 152 7 Tides of the Ocean 153 7.1 Introduction 153 7.2 Tide‐Generating Forces 153 7.2.1 Gravitational Force 153 7.2.2 Centrifugal Force 154 7.2.3 Tide‐Producing Force 156 7.3 Equilibrium Tide 157 7.3.1 Tidal Cycle 157 7.3.2 Orbiting Moon 158 7.3.3 Inclination of Moon’s Orbit 159 7.4 Interaction of Sun and Moon 159 7.5 Effects of Orbital Geometry 161 7.6 Effects of Partitioning Oceans 162 7.7 Tidal Signatures 163 7.8 Tides in Shallow Water 167 7.9 Summary 175 References 176 Suggested Reading 176 8 River Deltas: The Source of Most of our Coastal Sediments 177 8.1 How Deltas Develop 178 8.2 Deltas and Sea Level 182 8.3 Delta Environments 184 8.4 Delta Plain 184 8.4.1 Delta Front 186 8.5 Delta Processes 189 8.6 River Processes 189 8.7 Delta Classification 190 8.7.1 River‐Dominated Deltas 192 8.7.2 Tide‐Dominated Deltas 193 8.7.3 Wave‐Dominated Deltas 193 8.8 Intermediate Deltas 195 8.9 Human Influence 195 8.10 Summary 200 References 200 Suggested Reading 201 9 Estuaries 203 9.1 Estuarine Hydrology 206 9.1.1 Classification of Estuaries 207 9.1.2 Estuarine Processes 208 9.1.3 Time–Velocity Relationships 209 9.1.4 Model Estuary 214 9.1.5 Estuary Types 219 9.2 Human Impact on Estuaries 222 9.3 Summary 227 References 227 Suggested Reading 228 10 Coastal Lagoons 229 10.1 Definition 229 10.2 Morphology and Setting 229 10.3 General Characteristics 231 10.4 Lagoonal Processes 233 10.5 Lagoonal Sediments 235 10.6 Example Lagoons 239 10.7 Summary 244 Suggested Reading 245 11 Tidal Flats 247 11.1 Morphology of Tidal Flats 247 11.2 Sediments 249 11.3 Organisms 249 11.3.1 Vagrant Organisms 250 11.3.2 Sessile Organisms 250 11.3.3 Limiting Factors 250 11.3.4 Bioturbation 254 11.4 Sedimentary Structures 254 11.5 Tidal Flat Processes 260 11.5.1 Tides 260 11.5.2 Waves 263 11.6 Tidal Channels 265 11.7 Some Examples 267 11.7.1 German Wadden Sea and Jade Bay 267 11.7.2 The Wash 272 11.7.3 Bay of St.‐Malo 273 11.7.4 Bay of Fundy 273 11.8 Human Impact on Tidal Flats 274 11.9 Summary 276 References 278 Suggested Reading 278 12 Coastal Wetlands 281 12.1 Characteristics of a Coastal Marsh 281 12.1.1 Marsh Plants 281 12.1.2 Global Distribution 284 12.2 Marsh Characteristics 285 12.2.1 Marsh Classification 287 12.3 Marsh Sedimentation 289 12.3.1 Sediments 290 12.3.2 Sea Level and Marsh Development 292 12.4 Human Impact on the Marsh Environment 293 12.5 Marsh Summary 293 12.6 Mangrove Coasts 297 12.7 Mangrove Distribution 297 12.7.1 Global Distribution 297 12.7.2 Local 297 12.7.3 Zonation 298 12.8 Mangroves and Coastal Processes 300 12.9 Human Impact on Mangroves 303 12.10 Summary 303 References 305 Suggested Reading 305 13 Beach and Nearshore Environment 307 13.1 Nearshore Environment 307 13.2 Foreshore 312 13.3 Backbeach 322 13.4 Human Impact on Beaches 328 13.5 Summary 331 Suggested Reading 337 14 Coastal Dunes 339 14.1 Types of Coastal Dunes and Their Distribution 339 14.2 Dune Formation 345 14.3 Dune Dynamics 349 14.3.1 Dune Structures 351 14.4 Human Influence on Dunes 352 14.5 Summary 353 Suggested Reading 357 15 Barrier Systems 359 15.1 Introduction 359 15.2 Physical Description 359 15.3 Distribution and Coastal Setting 362 15.4 Summary 366 15.5 Barrier Types 366 15.5.1 Barrier Spits 367 15.5.2 Welded Barriers 374 15.5.3 Barrier Islands 376 15.6 Prograding, Retrograding, and Aggrading Barriers 380 15.6.1 Prograding Barriers 381 15.6.2 Retrograding Barriers 384 15.6.3 Aggrading Barriers 388 15.7 Barrier Stratigraphy 390 15.8 Barrier Coast Morphology 393 15.8.1 Hayes Models 394 15.8.2 Georgia Bight 396 15.9 Barrier Coasts: Morphology and Evolution 399 15.9.1 Eastern Shore of Nova Scotia 399 15.9.2 Mississippi River Delta Barriers 400 15.10 Summary 403 References 403 Suggested Reading 404 16 Tidal Inlets 405 16.1 Introduction 405 16.2 What is a Tidal Inlet 405 16.3 Inlet Morphology 409 16.3.1 Tidal Deltas 409 16.3.2 Ebb‐Tidal Delta Morphology 413 16.4 Tidal Inlet Formation 415 16.4.1 Breaching of a Barrier 415 16.4.2 Spit Building across a Bay 415 16.4.3 Drowned River Valleys 417 16.4.4 Ephemeral Inlets 419 16.5 Tidal Inlet Migration 419 16.6 Tidal Inlet Relationships 423 16.6.1 Inlet Throat Area–Tidal Prism Relationship 423 16.6.2 Ebb‐Tidal Delta Volume–Tidal Prism Relationship 425 16.7 Sand Transport Patterns 426 16.7.1 General Sand‐Dispersal Trends 427 16.7.2 Inlet Sediment Bypassing 427 16.8 Tidal Inlet Effects on Adjacent Shorelines 438 16.8.1 Number and Size of Tidal Inlets 439 16.8.2 Tidal Inlets as Sediment Traps 440 16.8.3 Changes in Ebb‐Tidal Delta Volume 441 16.8.4 Wave Sheltering 442 16.8.5 Effects of Inlet Sediment Bypassing 445 16.8.6 Human Influences 446 16.9 Summary 448 References 451 Suggested Reading 452 17 Glaciated Coasts 453 17.1 Introduction 453 17.2 The World’s Glaciers 454 17.2.1 Glacier Formation 456 17.2.2 Glacier Movement 457 17.2.3 Distribution and Types of Glaciers 458 17.3 Pleistocene Glaciation 462 17.3.1 Introduction 462 17.3.2 Defining the Pleistocene 463 17.3.3 Causes of the Ice Ages 464 17.3.4 The Late Pleistocene 466 17.4 Glacial Effects on Coastlines 467 17.4.1 General Erosional Processes 467 17.4.2 Fjords 468 17.4.3 Rocky Coasts 469 17.4.4 General Depositional Processes 471 17.4.5 Depositional Landforms 473 17.5 Examples of Glaciated Coastlines 477 17.5.1 Cape Cod 477 17.5.2 Drumlin Coasts 480 17.5.3 Sand and Gravel Beaches 482 17.5.4 Uplifted Coasts 482 17.5.5 Drowned River Valleys 485 17.6 Summary 485 References 487 Suggested Readings 488 18 Rocky Coasts 489 18.1 Introduction 489 18.2 Types and Distribution 490 18.2.1 Tectonic Settings 490 18.2.2 Glaciated Regions 490 18.2.3 Other Bedrock Coasts 491 18.3 Erosional Processes 493 18.3.1 Physical Processes 493 18.3.2 Biological Processes 497 18.3.3 Chemical Processes 498 18.4 Factors Affecting Rates of Erosion 498 18.5 Morphology 500 18.5.1 Sea Cliffs 501 18.5.2 Horizontal Erosional Landforms 504 18.5.3 Sea Stacks, Arches, and Erosional Features 506 18.6 Summary 511 Suggested Reading 512 Index 513

Autorenportrait

RICHARD A. DAVIS, JR., PHD, is Professor Emeritus at the University of South Florida, USA. DUNCAN M. FITZGERALD, PHD, is Professor in the Earth Science Department at Boston University, USA.

Back cover copy

Coastlines of the world are as diverse and complex as any geological setting on Earth, and understanding them is extremely important. Beaches and Coasts is an exciting and unique textbook that covers the world's different coasts and details the highly varied processes that have shaped them. This new edition emphasizes the future susceptibility of coasts to climate-driven stresses and decreasing sediment supplies, and considers various aspects of coastal management that are or that need to be undertaken. Seeking to better educate students and readers about the sustainability of coast and coastal environments, this book offers enlightening coverage of the Earth's mobile crust; sediments of coastal environments; impacts of sea level change; weather systems and the effects of storms; the influence of wave energy and different tidal regimes; river deltas; coastal bays; estuaries and lagoons; tidal flats; coastal wetlands; beach and nearshore areas; coastal barriers; tidal inlets; glaciated coasts and rocky coasts. The new edition of Beaches and Coasts: <ul> <li>Takes an extensive look at the world's varied coasts and covers the many processes that have shaped them over time</li> <li>Shows how coastal processes and landform evolution are expected to be impacted by climate change</li> <li>Includes new coverage of Hurricane Katrina and the 2005 flooding of New Orleans, Hurricane Sandy and its effect on New York and the earthquake and tsunami in the Indian Ocean and Tohoku</li> </ul> Beaches and Coasts, Second Edition is an excellent text for undergraduate and graduate students of coastal geology, coastal processes and coastal environments.