Details

<p>Acknowledgments xi</p> <p>List of Figures xiii</p> <p>Series Editor’s Preface xvii</p> <p>Notes on Contributors xix</p> <p>General Introduction 1</p> <p><b>Part I Histories and Frameworks 7</b></p> <p>1 Unraveling the Fabric of the Past: Interdisciplinary Approaches to Archaeological Textiles 11<br /><i>Margarita Gleba</i></p> <p>2 Textile Cultures in the Early Modern World 27<br /><i>Robert S. DuPlessis</i></p> <p>3 Rewriting Textile Culture with Woven Words: “Oro es tu hilar” by Chilean Poet Cecilia Vicuña 45<br /><i>Meredith G. Clark</i></p> <p>4 Branding Tradition: The Commercialization of Hand Embroidery in Gujarat 61<br /><i>Eiluned Edwards</i></p> <p>5 “The Real Thing”: How Object Analysis Unlocks Meaning and Enriches Documentary Evidence 83<br /><i>Adrienne D. Hood</i></p> <p><b>Part II Textiles, Trade, and Global Culture 105</b></p> <p>6 Reading Textiles: Transmission and Technology of Silk Road Textiles in the First Millennium 109<br /><i>Angela Sheng</i></p> <p>7 West Africa: Technology, Tradition, and Lurex Revisited 127<br /><i>John Picton</i></p> <p>8 Textiles of Eastern and Southern Africa 145<br /><i>Chris Spring</i></p> <p>9 Remaking Tradition in Art and Design in Pakistan 165<br /><i>Naazish Ata‐Ullah, Zeb Bilal and Shehnaz Ismail</i></p> <p><b>Part III The Social Fabric: The Politics and Poetics of Cloth 181</b></p> <p>10 Fabricating Identity: Textiles in the Pacific 187<br /><i>Paul Sharrad</i></p> <p>11 Stitching (in) Trauma: Constructing Identity in Thread Behind Prison Bars 201<br /><i>Maureen Daly Goggin</i></p> <p>12 Creative Tensions: Making (It), Unmaking, and Making Do in Textiles Informed by Feminism 219<br /><i>Alexandra Kokoli</i></p> <p>13 Spinning a Yarn of One’s Own 235<br /><i>Christine Checinska</i></p> <p>14 Pictures and Polemics: Muslim Veiling Practices in Contemporary Art 257<br /><i>Valerie Behiery</i></p> <p>15 The Subversive Stitch Revisited 275<br /><i>Lisa Vinebaum</i></p> <p><b>Part IV Conceptual Boundaries 299</b></p> <p>16 Modernism’s Roots in the Domestic, Decorative, and Vernacular Through Textiles 303<br /><i>Virginia Gardner Troy</i></p> <p>17 Material Strategies: Cloth and Textile Metaphors in Modern and Contemporary Art 317<br /><i>Jennifer Harris</i></p> <p>18 Pragmatics of Attachment and Detachment: A Constellatory Reinscription of Textile 333<br /><i>Maxine Bristow</i></p> <p>19 Japanese Textile Culture: The Example of Junichi Arai and Five Other Creators 353<br /><i>Akiko Moriyama</i></p> <p>20 Stories of Innovation: Fabrication in Africa and Beyond 371<br /><i>Atta Kwami</i></p> <p><b>Part V Reception and Representation 391</b></p> <p>21 Around the World in 80 Biennials: Curating Lausanne, Hangzhou, Kaunas 395<br /><i>Janis Jefferies and Lee Weinberg</i></p> <p>22 Indigenous Textiles of North America: A Century of Exhibitions 417<br /><i>Elizabeth Kalbfleisch and Janet Catherine Berlo</i></p> <p>23 Valorizing Gee’s Bend Quilts: Affinity, Adjacency, and the Modern Eye 435<br /><i>Karin E. Peterson and Leisa Rundquist</i></p> <p>24 Performing the Political in Oceanian Textile Cultures: Collectivity, Syncretism, and Globalization 459<br /><i>Khadija von Zinnenburg Carroll</i></p> <p>Index 475</p>

<p><b>Jennifer Harris</b> is an Honorary Research Fellow at the University of Manchester, UK. Now retired, she was Deputy Director at the Whitworth Art Gallery, holding one of the finest collections of historical and contemporary textiles in the UK. Harris has researched and published in the fields of fashion, textiles, and avant-garde craft for more than thirty years. Her book <i>5000 Years of Textiles</i>, first published in 1993 and reprinted several times, continues to be a standard text in the field.

<p><b>A Companion to Textile Culture</b> <p><b>A lively and innovative collection of new and recent writings on the cultural contexts of textiles</b> <p>The study of textile culture is a dynamic field of scholarship which spans disciplines and crosses traditional academic boundaries<i>. A Companion to Textile Culture</i> is an expertly curated compendium of new scholarship on both the historical and contemporary cultural dimensions of textiles, bringing together the work of an interdisciplinary team of recognized experts in the field. The <i>Companion</i> provides an expansive examination of textiles within the broader area of visual and material culture, and addresses key issues central to the contemporary study of the subject. <p>A wide range of methodological and theoretical approaches to the subject are explored—technological, anthropological, philosophical, and psychoanalytical, amongst others—and developments that have influenced academic writing about textiles over the past decade are examined in detail. Uniquely, the text embraces archaeological textiles from the first millennium AD as well as the contemporary art and performance work that is still ongoing. This authoritative volume: <ul> <li>Offers a balanced presentation of chapters by academics, artists, and curators</li> <li>Presents discussions from various disciplines including histories of art and design, world history, anthropology, archaeology, and literary studies</li> <li>Covers an exceptionally broad chronological and geographical range</li> <li>Provides diverse global, transnational, and narrative perspectives</li> <li>Includes numerous images throughout the text to illustrate key concepts.</li> </ul> <p><i>A Companion to Textile Culture</i> is an essential resource for undergraduate and postgraduate students, instructors, and researchers of textile history, contemporary textiles, art and design, visual and material culture, textile crafts, and museology.

US