Details

Handbook of Natural Colorants


Handbook of Natural Colorants


Wiley Series in Renewable Resource 2. Aufl.

von: Thomas Bechtold, Avinash P. Manian, Tung Pham, Christian V. Stevens

192,99 €

Verlag: Wiley
Format: EPUB
Veröffentl.: 11.04.2023
ISBN/EAN: 9781119811725
Sprache: englisch
Anzahl Seiten: 688

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Beschreibungen

<p><b>Handbook of Natural Colorants<BR> Second Edition</b> <p><b>A detailed survey of a variety of natural colorants and their different applications including textiles, polymers, and cosmetics</b> <p>Colorants describe a wide range of materials such as dyes, pigments, inks, paint, or chemicals, which are used in small quantities but play an important role in many products such as textiles, polymers, food, and cosmetics. As the effects of climate change begin to be felt, there has been a shift in focus in the field to renewable resources and sustainability, and an interest in the replacement of oil-based products with greener substitutions. As the push to adopt natural resources grows, there have been significant developments in the research and application of natural colorants as a step in the transition to a bio-based economy. <p>The second edition of <i>Handbook of Natural Colorants </i>provides a detailed introduction to natural colorants in a marriage of theory and practice, from seed of plant to consumer demand. Presenting a wide range of viewpoints, the book briefly discusses the history of coloration technology and the current position of natural colorants before highlighting detailed information on regional plant source availability, colorant production and properties, as well as analytical methods for isolation, identification, and toxicity aspects. It also presents key applications in technical use and consumer products, including the use of natural colorants in textiles, hair dyeing, printing, and packaging. Finally, the text considers environmental and economic aspects of natural colorants. <p><i>Handbook of Natural Colorants </i>is a useful reference for dyers, textile producers, and researchers in the evolving field of sustainable chemistry, environmental sciences, agricultural sciences, and polymer sciences. <ul><li> Revised and updated content throughout to reflect developments in research and applications over the past decade </li> <li> New content on biotechnology in natural colorant production, natural colorants for mass coloration polymers, natural colorants in printing/packaging, and plant-based pigments </li> <li>Discusses strategies for scale-up, including consideration of energy, waste, and effluents</li></ul> <p>For more information on the Wiley Series in Renewable Resources, visit <b>www.wiley.com/go/rrs</b>
<p>List of Contributors xxi</p> <p>Series Preface xxv</p> <p>Preface xxvii</p> <p><b>I Historical Development 1</b></p> <p><b>1 History of Natural Dyes in the Ancient Mediterranean Civilization 3<br /> </b><i>Maria J. Melo</i></p> <p>1.1 Introduction 3</p> <p>1.1.1 Ancient Mediterranean World 3</p> <p>1.1.2 Dyes from Antiquity 4</p> <p>1.1.3 Unveiling the Secrets of Ancient Dyes with Modern Science 7</p> <p>1.2 Ancient Reds 7</p> <p>1.2.1 Anthraquinone Reds 7</p> <p>1.2.2 Redwoods 10</p> <p>1.2.3 Flavylium/Anthocyanin Reds 12</p> <p>1.2.3.1 Equilibria in solution 13</p> <p>1.3 Ancient Blues 14</p> <p>1.3.1 Indigo Blues 14</p> <p>1.3.2 Anthocyanin Blues 15</p> <p>1.4 Ancient Purples 16</p> <p>1.4.1 Tyrian Purple: Real Purple from Sea Snails 16</p> <p>1.4.2 Orchil Purples 18</p> <p>1.4.3 Folium 18</p> <p>1.5 Ancient Yellows 20</p> <p>1.5.1 Flavonoid Yellows 20</p> <p>1.5.2 Carotenoid Yellows 21</p> <p>1.5.3 Chalcone and Aurone Yellows 22</p> <p>Acknowledgements 22</p> <p>References 22</p> <p><b>2 Colors in Civilizations of the World and Natural Colorants: History under Tension 27<br /> </b><i>Dominique Cardon</i></p> <p>2.1 Introduction 27</p> <p>2.2 The Triumph of Mauveine: Synthetic Fulfillment of the Antique Purplemania 28</p> <p>2.3 Blue: From Kingly Regional to Globally Democratic 29</p> <p>2.4 Red and Yellow: From Micro to Macro Scales 29</p> <p>2.5 What Is the Future for Natural Colorants in the Dawning Era of Renewable Resources? 30</p> <p>Acknowledgement 31</p> <p>References 31</p> <p><b>3 History of Natural Dyes in North Africa_Egypt 33<br /> </b><i>Harby Ezzeldeen Ahmed</i></p> <p>3.1 Introduction 33</p> <p>3.2 Natural Dyes in Pharaonic Textiles 34</p> <p>3.3 Dyeing Techniques 34</p> <p>3.4 Dye Sources 34</p> <p>3.4.1 Woad 35</p> <p>3.4.2 Indigo 35</p> <p>3.4.3 Red 35</p> <p>3.4.4 Yellow 36</p> <p>3.4.5 Black 36</p> <p>3.4.6 Brown 36</p> <p>3.4.7 Green 36</p> <p>3.4.8 Purple 36</p> <p>3.5 Dyeing in Coptic Textiles 36</p> <p>3.6 Wool- Dyed Fabric with Natural Dye 38</p> <p>3.7 Dyes in Islamic Textiles 38</p> <p>3.8 Mordants 40</p> <p>References 40</p> <p><b>II Natural Colorants in Different Regions of the World 43</b></p> <p><b>4 Sources for Natural Colorants in Europe 45<br /> </b><i>Thomas Bechtold, Tung Pham and Avinash P. Manian</i></p> <p>4.1 Introduction 45</p> <p>4.2 Cultivation 46</p> <p>4.2.1 Potential European Dye Plants Yesterday and Now 46</p> <p>4.2.2 Modern Cultivation Methods— General Facts 47</p> <p>4.2.3 Blue- Dye Plants 48</p> <p>4.2.4 Red- Dye Plants 49</p> <p>4.2.5 Yellow- Dye Plants 49</p> <p>4.2.6 Brown- Dye Plants 52</p> <p>4.2.7 Production of Dye Extracts 54</p> <p>4.3 Natural Colorants from Agro- Food Residues 55</p> <p>4.4 Natural Colorants from Forestry and Timber Industry 56</p> <p>4.5 Relevant Examples for the Application 57</p> <p>4.6 Conclusions, Discussion, and Summary 58</p> <p>Acknowledgement 58</p> <p>References 59</p> <p><b>5 Dyes in South America 63<br /> </b><i>Veridiana Vera de Rosso and Adriana Zerlotti Mercadante</i></p> <p>5.1 Introduction 63</p> <p>5.2 Annatto 65</p> <p>5.3 Turmeric 67</p> <p>5.4 Marigold 68</p> <p>5.5 Cochineal and Carmine 69</p> <p>Acknowledgements 71</p> <p>References 71</p> <p><b>6 Natural Dyes in Eastern Asia (Vietnam and Neighboring Countries) 75<br /> </b><i>Tung Pham and Thomas Bechtold</i></p> <p>6.1 Introduction 75</p> <p>6.2 Annatto (Bixa orellana L., Family Bixaceae) 75</p> <p>6.3 Tea (<i>Camellia sinensis (</i>L<i>.) Kuntze, </i>Family Theaceae) 77</p> <p>6.4 Umbrella Tree (<i>Terminalia catappa </i>L<i>., </i>Family Combretaceae) 77</p> <p>6.5 Mackloeur (<i>Diospyros mollis </i>L<i>. Griff, </i>Family Ebenaceae) 78</p> <p>6.6 Indigo (<i>Indigofera </i>L., Family Fabaceae) 79</p> <p>6.6.1 Indigofera tinctoria L. 79</p> <p>6.6.2 Indigofera galegoides dc 80</p> <p>6.6.3 Strobilanthes cusia (<i>Baphicacanthus</i>) 80</p> <p>6.7 Henna (<i>Kok Khan or Khao Youak in Laos</i>) (<i>Lawsonia spinosa </i>L., Family Lythraceae) 80</p> <p>6.8 Nacre (<i>African Mahogany, Khaya senegalensis</i>, Family Meliaceae) 81</p> <p>6.9 Sappan Wood (<i>Caesalpinia sappan</i> L., Family Fabaceae) 81</p> <p>6.10 Japanese Pagoda Tree Flowers (<i>Sophora japonica</i> L., Family Leguminosae) 82</p> <p>6.11 Turmeric (<i>Curcuma longa</i> L., Family Zingiberaceae) 82</p> <p>6.12 Sapodilla (<i>Manilkara zapota</i> L. or <i>Achras zapota</i>, Family Sapotaceae) 82</p> <p>6.13 Betel (<i>Piper betel</i> L., Family Piperaceae) 83</p> <p>6.14 Eucalyptus (<i>Eucalyptus</i>, Family Myrtaceae) 83</p> <p>6.15 Caesalpinia Yellow (<i>Caesalpinia pulcherrima</i> L., Family Fabaceae) 83</p> <p>6.16 Brow- Tuber; Yam (<i>Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour</i>, Family Dioscoreaceae) 83</p> <p>6.17 Others 84</p> <p>Acknowledgement 84</p> <p>References 84</p> <p><b>7 Sources for Natural Colorants in China 89<br /> </b><i>Ren-Cheng Tang</i></p> <p>7.1 Introduction 89</p> <p>7.2 Sophora japonica Yellow 92</p> <p>7.3 Turmeric 93</p> <p>7.4 Gardenia Yellow 93</p> <p>7.5 Emodin 93</p> <p>7.6 Baicalin 94</p> <p>7.7 Berberine 94</p> <p>7.8 Henna 94</p> <p>7.9 Monascus Red 95</p> <p>7.10 Madder 95</p> <p>7.11 Sorghum Red 95</p> <p>7.12 Mulberry Red 96</p> <p>7.13 Shikonin 96</p> <p>7.14 Indigo 96</p> <p>7.15 Condensed Tannins 97</p> <p>7.16 Tea Polyphenols 98</p> <p>7.17 Gallnut 99</p> <p>References 99</p> <p><b>8 Sources, Application, and Analysis of Natural Colorants: An Indian Perspective 103<br /> </b><i>Prof. (Dr.) Ashis Kumar Samanta and Prof. (Dr.) Deepali Singhee</i></p> <p>8.1 Introduction 103</p> <p>8.2 Natural Dyes in India 104</p> <p>8.2.1 History 104</p> <p>8.2.2 Traditional Processes of Dyeing with Natural Dyes in Different Parts of India 105</p> <p>8.2.3 Sources of Natural Dyes in India 106</p> <p>8.2.4 Use of Some Natural Dyes in Traditional Textiles of India 107</p> <p>8.3 Details of Some Dye Sources and Their Application in India 109</p> <p>8.3.1 Turmeric 109</p> <p>8.3.2 Pomegranate 111</p> <p>8.3.3 Flame of Forest 114</p> <p>8.3.4 Marigold 116</p> <p>8.3.5 Safflower 118</p> <p>8.3.6 Annatto 120</p> <p>8.3.7 Madder 123</p> <p>8.3.8 Indian Mulberry 125</p> <p>8.3.9 Arjuna 127</p> <p>8.3.10 Sappanwood 130</p> <p>8.3.11 Eucalyptus 132</p> <p>8.3.12 Catechu 134</p> <p>8.3.13 Gallnut 137</p> <p>8.3.14 Myrobolan 140</p> <p>8.3.15 Lac 142</p> <p>8.3.16 Indigo 145</p> <p>References 147</p> <p><b>9 Natural Dye Gardens in North America 161<br /> </b><i>Wendy Weiss and Thomas Bechtold</i></p> <p>9.1 Introduction 161</p> <p>9.2 Participants 162</p> <p>9.3 Education 163</p> <p>9.4 Motivation to Work with Natural Dye 166</p> <p>9.5 Plant List— Cultivated Plants 166</p> <p>9.6 Chemical Background of Most Relevant Plants 168</p> <p>9.7 Plant List— Foraged Plants 172</p> <p>9.8 Plants with Indigotin 172</p> <p>9.9 Importance of the Fibershed Movement 173</p> <p>9.10 Educational and Community Gardens 174</p> <p>9.11 Mexico 177</p> <p>9.12 Canada 177</p> <p>9.13 Future Research 178</p> <p>References 178</p> <p>Notes 179</p> <p><b>III Colorant Production and Properties 181</b></p> <p><b>10 Chlorophylls 183<br /> </b><i>María Roca</i></p> <p>10.1 Introduction 183</p> <p>10.2 Chemical Structures and Physicochemical Properties 184</p> <p>10.3 Chlorophylls as Colorants 187</p> <p>10.4 New Trends in the Use of Chlorophylls as Colorants 189</p> <p>10.5 Stability and Analysis 190</p> <p>10.6 Toxicological and Safety Aspects 191</p> <p>References 192</p> <p><b>11 Indigo— Production and Properties 195<br /> </b><i>Philip John and Luciana Gabriella Angelini</i></p> <p>11.1 Introduction 195</p> <p>11.2 Agronomy 196</p> <p>11.2.1 Isatis 196</p> <p>11.2.1.1 Developmental Stages and Climate and Soil Crop Requirements 197</p> <p>11.2.1.2 Rotation 201</p> <p>11.2.1.3 Soil Tillage and Seed Sowing 202</p> <p>11.2.1.4 Weeds, Pests, and Diseases 203</p> <p>11.2.1.5 Fertilizers and Irrigation 204</p> <p>11.2.1.6 Harvesting and Yields 205</p> <p>11.2.1.7 Seed Production 207</p> <p>11.2.1.8 Isatis indigotica Compared with Isatis tinctoria 208</p> <p>11.2.2 Persicaria 209</p> <p>11.2.2.1 Introduction 209</p> <p>11.2.2.2 Developmental Stages 211</p> <p>11.2.2.3 Sowing, Harvesting, and Yield 211</p> <p>11.2.2.4 Weeds, Pests, and Diseases 216</p> <p>11.2.2.5 Fertilizer and Irrigation Requirement 216</p> <p>11.2.2.6 Seed Production 217</p> <p>11.2.3 Indigofera 217</p> <p>11.3 Methods of Determining Indigo 219</p> <p>11.4 Precursors in the Plants 222</p> <p>11.5 Direct Dyeing with Indican 227</p> <p>11.6 Indigo Formation 227</p> <p>11.7 Extraction Procedures 229</p> <p>11.7.1 Traditional Process Using Crushed Leaf Material 229</p> <p>11.7.1.1 Isatis 229</p> <p>11.7.1.2 Persicaria 230</p> <p>11.7.2 Steeping in Water 231</p> <p>11.7.2.1 Indigofera 232</p> <p>11.7.2.2 Isatis 234</p> <p>11.7.2.3 Persicaria 239</p> <p>11.8 Purity of Natural Indigo 240</p> <p>11.8.1 Purification by Sublimation 241</p> <p>11.8.2 Impurities in Natural Indigo 242</p> <p>Acknowledgements 245</p> <p>References 245</p> <p><b>12 Anthocyanins: Revisiting Nature’s Glamorous Palette 251<br /> </b><i>Maria J. Melo, Fernando Pina, Natércia Teixeira and Claude Andary</i></p> <p>12.1 Chemical Basis 251</p> <p>12.1.1 Chemical Structures 251</p> <p>12.1.2 Equilibria in Solution 253</p> <p>12.1.3 Kinetics 254</p> <p>12.1.4 Color and Color Stability 254</p> <p>12.1.5 Anthocyanins as Antioxidants 258</p> <p>12.2 Natural Sources and Applications for Anthocyanins 259</p> <p>12.2.1 Plants Sources, Content, Influencing Parameters 259</p> <p>12.2.2 Food Colorants 260</p> <p>12.2.3 Other Uses 261</p> <p>12.2.4 Examples of Commercial Products and Processing 262</p> <p>References 263</p> <p>Appendix 1 267</p> <p>A1.1 Multi-Equilibria in Acidic and Basic Media 267</p> <p>A1.2 Measuring the Equilibria Constants 269</p> <p><b>13 Natural Colorants— Quinoid, Naphthoquinoid, and Anthraquinoid Dyes 271<br /> </b><i>Goverdina C. H. Derksen and Thomas Bechtold</i></p> <p>13.1 Introduction 271</p> <p>13.2 Benzoquinone Dyes 271</p> <p>13.3 Diaryloylmethane Dyes 273</p> <p>13.4 Naphthoquinone Dyes 273</p> <p>13.4.1 Lawson (2- hydroxy- 1,4- naphthoquinone, CI Natural Orange 6) 274</p> <p>13.4.1.1 Properties and Use 274</p> <p>13.4.1.2 Agricultural Aspects 276</p> <p>13.4.2 Juglone (5- hydroxy- 1,4- naphthoquinone, CI Natural Brown 7) 278</p> <p>13.5 Anthraquinone Dyes 279</p> <p>13.5.1 Main Components Emodin and Chrysophanol— Rheum and Rumex Species 279</p> <p>13.5.2 Main Components Alizarin and/or Pseudopurpurin/Purpurin 281</p> <p>13.5.2.1 Plant Sources 281</p> <p>13.5.2.2 Madder CI Natural Red 8 282</p> <p>References 294</p> <p><b>14 Natural Colorants from Lichens and Mushrooms 317<br /> </b><i>Riikka Räisänen</i></p> <p>14.1 Use of Lichen and Mushroom Colorants in History 317</p> <p>14.2 Cultivation of Lichens and Mushrooms 318</p> <p>14.3 Colorant Structures in Lichens and Mushrooms 319</p> <p>14.3.1 Lichen Dyes: Orchils and Litmus 321</p> <p>14.3.2 Yellowish, Brownish, and Reddish Colorants from Lichen 322</p> <p>14.3.3 Blue Terphenylquinones from Mushrooms 322</p> <p>14.3.4 Anthraquinones 324</p> <p>14.3.4.1 Bloodred Webcap (Cortinarius sanguineus) 324</p> <p>14.3.5 Other Colorants of Fungi 326</p> <p>14.3.5.1 Yellows from Grevillines 326</p> <p>14.3.5.2 Yellow and Orange Colors from Pulvinic Acid Derivatives 326</p> <p>14.3.5.3 Brown from Badiones 326</p> <p>14.4 Stability of Lichen and Mushroom Colorants 326</p> <p>14.5 New Approaches to Lichen and Fungal Colorants 327</p> <p>References 328</p> <p><b>15 Focus on Tannins 333<br /> </b><i>Riitta Julkunen-Tiitto and Hely Häggman</i></p> <p>15.1 Introduction 333</p> <p>15.2 Chemical Structure, Biosynthesis, and Degradation 335</p> <p>15.3 Properties of Tannins 338</p> <p>15.4 Chemical Activities of Tannins 340</p> <p>15.5 Analysis of Tannins 340</p> <p>15.5.1 Sample Preservation 340</p> <p>15.5.2 Extraction and Purification 340</p> <p>15.5.3 Quantification of Tannins 341</p> <p>15.6 Use, Toxicology, and Safety Aspects of Tannins 342</p> <p>References 345</p> <p><b>16 Carotenoid Dyes— Properties and Production 351<br /> </b><i>U. Gamage Chandrika</i></p> <p>16.1 Introduction 351</p> <p>16.1.1 Occurrence of Carotenoids 351</p> <p>16.1.2 Chemistry of Carotenoids 351</p> <p>16.1.3 Chemical Characteristics of Natural Carotenoids 352</p> <p>16.2 Properties and Functions of Carotenoids 354</p> <p>16.2.1 Carotenoids’ Role as Pro- vitamin A 354</p> <p>16.2.2 Use of Carotenoids as Markers of Dietary Practices 356</p> <p>16.2.3 Carotenoids as Antioxidants 356</p> <p>16.2.4 Carotenoids in the Macular Region of the Retina 357</p> <p>16.2.5 Carotenoids as Anticancer Agents 357</p> <p>16.2.6 Carotenoids as Natural Colorants 357</p> <p>16.3 General Procedure for Carotenoid Analysis 357</p> <p>16.3.1 Sampling 359</p> <p>16.3.2 Extraction 359</p> <p>16.3.3 Saponification of Carotenoids 359</p> <p>16.3.4 Chromatographic Separation 359</p> <p>16.3.5 Chemical Tests 361</p> <p>16.3.6 Detection and Identification of Carotenoids 361</p> <p>16.3.7 Quantification of Carotenoids 362</p> <p>16.4 Problems in Carotenoid Analysis 362</p> <p>16.5 Factors Influencing Carotenoid Composition in Plant Sources 363</p> <p>16.5.1 Stage of Maturity 363</p> <p>16.5.2 Cultivar or Varietal Differences 363</p> <p>16.5.3 Climatic or Geographic Effects 364</p> <p>16.5.4 Post- Harvest Storage and Packing 364</p> <p>16.5.5 Changes in Processing/Cooking 364</p> <p>16.5.6 Effect of Agrochemicals 366</p> <p>References 366</p> <p><b>17 Flavonoids as Natural Pigments 371<br /> </b><i>M. Monica Giusti, Gonzalo Miyagusuku-Cruzado and Taylor C. Wallace</i></p> <p>17.1 Introduction 371</p> <p>17.2 Role of Localized Flavonoids in the Plant 372</p> <p>17.3 General Flavonoid Chemical Structure 372</p> <p>17.4 Biosynthesis of Flavonoids 373</p> <p>17.5 Anthocyanins as Natural Colorants 373</p> <p>17.5.1 Structure 375</p> <p>17.5.2 Structural Transformation and pH 376</p> <p>17.5.3 Temperature 377</p> <p>17.5.4 Oxygen and Ascorbic Acid 377</p> <p>17.5.5 Light 378</p> <p>17.5.6 Enzymes and Sugars 379</p> <p>17.5.7 Sulfur Dioxide 379</p> <p>17.5.8 Co- Pigmentation and Metal Complexation 380</p> <p>17.6 Other Flavonoids as Natural Colorants 381</p> <p>17.6.1 Yellow Flavonoid Pigments 381</p> <p>17.6.2 Tannins 381</p> <p>17.6.3 Anthocyanin- Derived Pigments: Pyranoanthocyanins 382</p> <p>17.7 Therapeutic Effects of Flavonoids in the Diet 382</p> <p>17.8 The Use of Flavonoids as Food Colors in the US and EU 383</p> <p>References 384</p> <p><b>18 Natural Colorants from Fungi 391<br /> </b><i>Cassamo U. Mussagy, Fernanda de Oliveira and Valeria C. Santos-Ebinuma</i></p> <p>18.1 Introduction 391</p> <p>18.2 Types of Fungi Colorants 392</p> <p>18.3 Fungal Producer of Colorants 394</p> <p>18.4 Bioprocess 395</p> <p>18.4.1 Biosynthesis Pathway 395</p> <p>18.4.2 Production and Extraction Process 400</p> <p>18.5 Toxicity 404</p> <p>18.6 Industrial Application of Fungi Colorants 406</p> <p>18.7 Conclusion 407</p> <p>References 407</p> <p><b>19 Natural Colorants from Cyanobacteria and Algae 417<br /> </b><i>Laurent Dufossé</i></p> <p>19.1 Introduction 417</p> <p>19.2 Phycobiliproteins from Cyanobacteria 418</p> <p>19.2.1 Structural Characteristics of Phycobiliproteins 420</p> <p>19.2.2 Food Grade Phycobiliproteins 422</p> <p>19.2.3 Future Trends 422</p> <p>19.3 Pigments from Microalgae 422</p> <p>19.3.1 β- Carotene from the Microalga Dunaliella, Salty but Effective! 423</p> <p>19.3.1.1 β- Carotene from Microalgae 423</p> <p>19.3.1.2 Dunaliella Species for Carotenoids 424</p> <p>19.3.2 Why Carotenoids from Dunaliella? 424</p> <p>19.3.2.1 Natural vs. Synthetic β- Carotene 424</p> <p>19.3.2.2 Applications of β- Carotene 424</p> <p>19.3.2.3 Advantages of Carotenoids Production from Dunaliella 425</p> <p>19.3.2.4 Process for Production of β- Carotene from Dunaliella 425</p> <p>19.3.2.5 Companies Producing Dunaliella 425</p> <p>19.3.2.6 Marketed Products of β- Carotene 426</p> <p>19.3.3 Haematococcus for Astaxanthin, the Red Gold Rush 426</p> <p>19.3.3.1 Advantages of Astaxanthin over Other Carotenoids 427</p> <p>19.3.3.2 Astaxanthin as Nutraceutical 427</p> <p>19.3.3.3 Astaxanthin as Antioxidant 427</p> <p>19.3.3.4 Astaxanthin for Health 428</p> <p>19.3.3.5 Astaxanthin for Salmon and Trout Feeds 428</p> <p>19.3.3.6 Astaxanthin for Humans 429</p> <p>19.3.3.7 Production System for Haematococcus 429</p> <p>19.3.3.8 Companies Producing Astaxanthin from Haematococcus 430</p> <p>19.3.3.9 Astaxanthin- Containing Formulations 431</p> <p>19.4 Natural Colorants from Macroalgae (e.g., Seaweeds) 431</p> <p>19.4.1 Biodiversity of Seaweeds 431</p> <p>19.4.2 Seasonal Variations and Environmental Threats 432</p> <p>19.4.3 Major Classes of Seaweed Pigments 433</p> <p>19.4.3.1 Chlorophylls 433</p> <p>19.4.3.2 Carotenoids 433</p> <p>19.4.3.3 Phycobiliproteins 434</p> <p>19.5 Conclusion 434</p> <p>References 434</p> <p><b>20 Biotechnological Production of Microbial Pigments: Recent Findings 439<br /> </b><i>Vivian Katherine Colorado Gómez, Juan Pablo Ruiz-Sánchez, Alejandro Méndez-Zavala, Lourdes Morales-Oyervides and Julio Montañez</i></p> <p>20.1 Introduction 439</p> <p>20.2 Microbial Pigments Market 440</p> <p>20.3 Production Strategies 440</p> <p>20.4 Novel Extraction Technologies for Pigments Recovery 441</p> <p>20.5 Regulation and Biosynthesis of Microbial Pigments 443</p> <p>20.6 Strain Engineering Strategies for Pigment Production 446</p> <p>20.7 Trends in New Microbial Sources of Pigments 448</p> <p>20.8 Microbial Pigments Applications 449</p> <p>20.8.1 Solar Cells 449</p> <p>20.8.2 Therapeutic Application 450</p> <p>20.8.3 Other Applications 450</p> <p>20.9 Regulations on Microbial Pigments Use 451</p> <p>20.10 Conclusions and Future Perspectives 452</p> <p>References 452</p> <p><b>21 Analytical Methods for Characterization and Standardization of Natural Dyes and Pigments 459<br /> </b><i>Tung Pham, Avinash Manian and Thomas Bechtold</i></p> <p>21.1 Introduction 459</p> <p>21.2 Chemical Analysis— Identification 460</p> <p>21.3 Quantification by Sum Parameters 463</p> <p>21.4 Applicatory Tests 464</p> <p>21.5 Product Performance 465</p> <p>References 466</p> <p><b>22 Wood— From Natural Color Patterns Toward Naturally Altered Color Impressions 469<br /> </b><i>Martin Weigl-Kuska, Andreas Kandelbauer, Christian Hansmann and Ulrich Müller</i></p> <p>22.1 The Color of Wood 469</p> <p>22.1.1 Wood Chemical Composition 470</p> <p>22.1.2 Wood Anatomical Appearance 471</p> <p>22.1.3 Physical Properties of the Wood Surface 472</p> <p>22.2 Coatings 473</p> <p>22.3 Dyes 477</p> <p>22.3.1 Impregnation 477</p> <p>22.3.1.1 Technology 477</p> <p>22.3.1.2 Color 479</p> <p>22.3.1.3 Products 480</p> <p>22.4 Color Modification 481</p> <p>22.4.1 Drying 482</p> <p>22.4.1.1 Basics 482</p> <p>22.4.1.2 Technology 483</p> <p>22.4.1.3 Color 484</p> <p>22.4.2 Steaming 485</p> <p>22.4.2.1 Basics 485</p> <p>22.4.2.2 Technology 485</p> <p>22.4.2.3 Color 486</p> <p>22.4.3 Thermal Treatment 487</p> <p>22.4.3.1 Technology 487</p> <p>22.4.3.2 Color 487</p> <p>22.4.4 Ammoniation 488</p> <p>22.4.4.1 Basics 488</p> <p>22.4.4.2 Color 489</p> <p>22.4.5 Bleaching 491</p> <p>22.4.5.1 Basics 491</p> <p>22.4.5.2 Color 491</p> <p>22.4.6 Enzymatic Treatment 492</p> <p>22.4.6.1 Basics 492</p> <p>22.4.6.2 Laccases 493</p> <p>22.4.7 Radiation 495</p> <p>22.4.7.1 Basics 495</p> <p>22.4.7.2 Color 495</p> <p>22.4.7.3 Technology 497</p> <p>22.5 Outlook 498</p> <p>References 498</p> <p><b>23 The Role of Mordants in Fixation of Natural Dyes 507<br /> </b><i>Avinash P. Manian</i></p> <p>23.1 Introduction 507</p> <p>23.2 Metal Salts 508</p> <p>23.3 Biomordants 508</p> <p>23.4 Substrate Pretreatments 508</p> <p>23.5 No Mordant 509</p> <p>References 509</p> <p><b>24 Textile Coloration with Natural Dyes and Pigments 517<br /> </b><i>Thomas Bechtold, Tung Pham and Avinash P. Manian</i></p> <p>24.1 Introduction 517</p> <p>24.2 Reasons for Natural Coloration 518</p> <p>24.3 The Dyestuff–Fiber Interaction 520</p> <p>24.4 Design of a Dyeing Process 521</p> <p>24.5 Transfer of a Dyeing Process into Technical Scale 523</p> <p>24.6 Processes and Resources 524</p> <p>24.7 Technical Requirements for a Natural Dyestuff 526</p> <p>24.7.1 Gamut and Color Shade 526</p> <p>24.7.2 Fastness Criteria 528</p> <p>24.8 Handling of Natural Dyes in a Technical Dyehouse 530</p> <p>24.9 Mordanting 531</p> <p>24.10 Natural Dyes on an Industrial Scale 533</p> <p>24.10.1 Dyeing Technology— Exhaust Process 533</p> <p>24.10.2 Hank Dyeing of Woolen Yarn and Production of Woolen Caps 534</p> <p>24.10.3 Dyeing of Cones in a Yarn Dyeing Machine 534</p> <p>24.10.4 Dyeing of Cotton Fabric on a Jet Dyeing Machine 535</p> <p>24.10.5 Fabric Dyeing on a Garment Dyeing Machine 536</p> <p>24.10.6 Dyeing of Polyamide Tights in a Paddle Dyeing Machine 536</p> <p>24.10.7 Dyeing Technology— Continuous Dyeing 536</p> <p>24.11 Conclusion 537</p> <p>Acknowledgement 538</p> <p>References 538</p> <p><b>25 Hair Coloration with Natural Dyes and Pigments 543<br /> </b><i>Thomas Bechtold</i></p> <p>25.1 Introduction 543</p> <p>25.2 Human Hair 544</p> <p>25.3 General Requirements on Hair Dyeing Concepts 544</p> <p>25.4 Chemical Principles of Dyestuff Binding 546</p> <p>25.5 Relevant Natural Dyes for Hair Dyeing 546</p> <p>25.5.1 Naphthoquinone Dyes— Henna and Walnut 546</p> <p>25.5.1.1 Henna, CI (Color Index) Natural Orange 6 546</p> <p>25.5.1.2 Juglon, CI Natural Brown 7 547</p> <p>25.5.2 Indigo 548</p> <p>25.5.3 Metal Complexes 548</p> <p>25.5.4 Metal Reaction Dyes 550</p> <p>25.5.5 Anthraquinoid Dyes 551</p> <p>25.6 Specialties 551</p> <p>25.7 Regulations 552</p> <p>References 552</p> <p><b>26 Natural Colorants in the Mass Coloration of Plastics 557<br /> </b><i>Thomas Bechtold and Tung Pham</i></p> <p>26.1 Introduction 557</p> <p>26.2 Representative Examples 559</p> <p>Acknowledgement 561</p> <p>References 561</p> <p><b>27 Natural Colorants in Printing/Packaging 563<br /> </b><i>Thomas Bechtold and Tung Pham</i></p> <p>27.1 Introduction 563</p> <p>27.2 Packaging Films 564</p> <p>27.3 Film Coloration 567</p> <p>27.4 Paper Dyeing 568</p> <p>27.5 Paints 568</p> <p>Acknowledgement 569</p> <p>References 569</p> <p><b>28 Technical Aspects and Requirements to Produce Natural Colorants— Processes and Product Standardization 573<br /> </b><i>Thomas Bechtold and Avinash Manian</i></p> <p>28.1 Introduction 573</p> <p>28.2 Sources of Plant Material— Product I 576</p> <p>28.2.1 Organic Farming 576</p> <p>28.2.2 Sustainable Farming 576</p> <p>28.2.3 Native Species 577</p> <p>28.2.4 Farming for Food or/and Natural Colorants 577</p> <p>28.2.5 Residual Materials and By- Products 577</p> <p>28.3 Processing to Dyestuff— Product II 579</p> <p>28.4 Quality Control and Standardization of a Dye (Product II) 583</p> <p>28.4.1 Anthocyanins 584</p> <p>28.4.2 Flavonoids 584</p> <p>28.4.3 Dye Lakes 585</p> <p>28.5 Challenges for the Industrial Use of Natural Colorants 585</p> <p>28.6 Dealing with Sustainability 586</p> <p>28.7 Conclusions 587</p> <p>References 587</p> <p><b>29 Environmental and Economic Position of Natural Colorants— Energy and Resources Balances,</b> <b>Sustainability, Ecology, and Costs 591<br /> </b><i>Susanne Geissler and Thomas Bechtold</i></p> <p>29.1 Introduction 591</p> <p>29.2 Dye Plant Production 592</p> <p>29.3 Dye Extraction and Dyestuff Production 595</p> <p>29.4 Transportation 596</p> <p>29.5 Textile Dyeing 596</p> <p>29.6 Commercial Aspects— Costs 597</p> <p>29.6.1 Basic Requirements for the Industrial Use of Natural Colorants 598</p> <p>29.6.1.1 Precondition 1: acceptable costs of natural colorants and dyeing processes 599</p> <p>29.6.1.2 Precondition 2: feasible cost of process engineering 599</p> <p>29.6.1.3 Precondition 3: compliance with requested colorfastness properties 599</p> <p>29.6.1.4 Precondition 4: competitive cost of naturally dyed products 600</p> <p>29.6.1.5 Precondition 5: security of natural colorant supply 600</p> <p>29.6.2 Consumer Expectations 600</p> <p>29.6.3 Market Research for Naturally Dyed Products 601</p> <p>29.7 Production Costs of Natural Colorant Products 602</p> <p>29.7.1 Cost Categories 603</p> <p>29.7.2 Aspects Influencing Production Costs 603</p> <p>29.8 Prices of Synthetic Dyes— How Much Are Textile Companies Prepared to Pay for Dyes? 605</p> <p>29.9 Acceptable Production Costs through a Mixed Portfolio (Agricultural Primary Production and Residues from Other Production Processes) 606</p> <p>29.10 Closed- Loop Economy: Toward a Zero- Emission and Zero- Waste Society 607</p> <p>29.11 Considerations Concerning the Life Cycle 609</p> <p>29.12 Conclusion: Aspects Influencing Market Development for Natural Colorants 609</p> <p>References 610</p> <p><b>30 Aspects of Human Toxicology and Consumer Safety 613<br /> </b><i>Judith Büttler, Thomas Bechtold and Tung Pham</i></p> <p>30.1 Introduction 613</p> <p>30.2 Basic Aspects of Xenobiotic- Induced Toxicity 614</p> <p>30.3 Toxicological Aspects of Natural Colorants in Food and Medical Applications 615</p> <p>30.3.1 Risk Assessment 617</p> <p>30.3.2 Therapeutic Effects (= Risk) 618</p> <p>30.4 Toxicological Aspects of Natural Colorants in Cosmetics 618</p> <p>30.4.1 Risk Assessment 619</p> <p>30.5 Toxicological Aspects of Natural Colorants in Textile Dyeing 619</p> <p>30.5.1 Plant Extracts 620</p> <p>30.5.2 Pretreatment Agents and Mordants 621</p> <p>30.5.3 Wastewater and Antimicrobial Compounds 621</p> <p>30.5.4 Dyed Products 622</p> <p>30.6 Test Methods for Toxicity Screening 622</p> <p>30.6.1 Extract Preparation 624</p> <p>30.6.2 Cytotoxicity 624</p> <p>30.6.3 Mutagenicity and Carcinogenicity 625</p> <p>30.6.4 Antimicrobial Activity 625</p> <p>30.6.5 Metabolism and In Vivo Animal Bioassays 626</p> <p>Acknowledgement 626</p> <p>References 626</p> <p>Index 629</p>
<p>Editors <p><b>Thomas Bechtold, PhD, </b><i>is a Professor at the Research Institute for Textile Chemistry and Textile Physics at the University of Innsbruck, Austria</i> <p><b>Avinash P. Manian, PhD, </b><i>is an Assistant Professor at the Research Institute for Textile Chemistry and Textile Physics, University of Innsbruck, Austria</i> <p><b>Tung Pham, PhD, </b><i>is the Head of Institute and BMK Endowed Professor at the Research Institute for Textile Chemistry and Textile Physics at the University of Innsbruck, Austria</i> <p>Series Editor <p><b>Christian V. Stevens, </b><i>Faculty of Bioscience Engineering, Ghent University, Belgium</i>
<p><b>Handbook of Natural Colorants<br> Second Edition</b> <p><b>A detailed survey of a variety of natural colorants and their different applications including textiles, polymers, and cosmetics</b> <p>Colorants describe a wide range of materials such as dyes, pigments, inks, paint, or chemicals, which are used in small quantities but play an important role in many products such as textiles, polymers, food, and cosmetics. As the effects of climate change begin to be felt, there has been a shift in focus in the field to renewable resources and sustainability, and an interest in the replacement of oil-based products with greener substitutions. As the push to adopt natural resources grows, there have been significant developments in the research and application of natural colorants as a step in the transition to a bio-based economy. <p>The second edition of <i>Handbook of Natural Colorants </i>provides a detailed introduction to natural colorants in a marriage of theory and practice, from seed of plant to consumer demand. Presenting a wide range of viewpoints, the book briefly discusses the history of coloration technology and the current position of natural colorants before highlighting detailed information on regional plant source availability, colorant production and properties, as well as analytical methods for isolation, identification, and toxicity aspects. It also presents key applications in technical use and consumer products, including the use of natural colorants in textiles, hair dyeing, printing, and packaging. Finally, the text considers environmental and economic aspects of natural colorants. <p><i>Handbook of Natural Colorants </i>is a useful reference for dyers, textile producers, and researchers in the evolving field of sustainable chemistry, environmental sciences, agricultural sciences, and polymer sciences. <ul><li> Revised and updated content throughout to reflect developments in research and applications over the past decade </li> <li> New content on biotechnology in natural colorant production, natural colorants for mass coloration polymers, natural colorants in printing/packaging, and plant-based pigments </li> <li>Discusses strategies for scale-up, including consideration of energy, waste, and effluents</li></ul> <p>For more information on the Wiley Series in Renewable Resources, visit <b>www.wiley.com/go/rrs</b>

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